Dusk or Dawn/Sunset Sunrises Lighting
In any situation where you have dying or little light, your normal readings are going to give you slow shutter speeds and wide apertures. This means using a tripod. If there is no visible sun, but a nice even glow, take a normal reading of the entire scene. When shooting into a setting or rising sun, I would also suggest using standard evaluative metering If we were to take a spot or center-weighted reading from the sun itself, we would end up with a beautiful, well exposed and dark orange/golden sun, framed by near darkness as the camera exposes for the sun only. The evaluative setting would take an overall average giving you much more chance of a well exposed sunset/sunrise with a slightly overexposed sun. With an evenly spread exposure, especially when shooting RAW, you can really enhance and improve the image to get it spot on. We could use this type of lighting at the start of the opening scene as it represents the morning and would show the audience it is starting with the day and shows how affecting the lighting is being used on the sun as it would engage the audience.
Low key lighting
Low-key lighting is a style of lighting for photography, film or television. It is a necessary element in creating a chiaroscuro effect. Traditional photographic lighting, three-point lighting uses a key light, a fill light, and a back light for illumination. Low-key lighting often uses only one key light, optionally controlled with a fill light or a simple reflector. Low key light accentuates the contours of an object by throwing areas into shade while a fill light or reflector may illuminate the shadow areas to control contrast. The relative strength of key-to-fill, known as the lighting ratio, can be measured using a light meter. Low key lighting has a higher lighting ratio, e.g. 8:1, than high-key lighting. The term "low key" is used in cinematography to refer to any scene with a high lighting ratio, especially if there is a predominance of shadowy areas. It tends to heighten the sense of alienation felt by the viewer, hence is commonly used in horror genres or suspense genres. We will be using this lighting often as our teen drama will involve alot of suspense and by using this type of lighting it will create enigma for the audience and keep them engaged throughout.
High-Key Lighting
High-key lighting is a style of lighting for film, television, or photography that aims to reduce the lighting ratio present in the scene. This was originally done partly for technological reasons, since early film and television did not deal well with high contrast ratios, but now is used to suggest an upbeat mood. It is often used in sitcoms and comedies. High-key lighting is usually quite homogeneous and free from dark shadows. The terminology comes from the key light (main light). The other noticeable feature of High Key images is the lack of contrast. In addition for the tone being bright, you will notice that it is almost even across the scene. This is achieved by carefully setting the lighting of the picture. More about that later. A third feature, that need closer attention to notice is the lack of shadows in the picture. The shadows cast by the model (or subject) are suppressed by lighting in the scene. We will be using this type of lighting in our production as this lighting is very bright and effective and it would engage the audience as well as it makes the characters more stand out as well.
Back Light
Take the picture as normal with "evaluative" metering leaving a well exposed background and underexposed or "silhouetted" subject. This is an effect that may suit the scene well, although you can lighten the subject in an editing program later. This will inevitably lead to the detail in the subject becoming grainy and deteriorated as you pull the details out.Take the image as above but use fill-in flash to lighten the subject. This way you get a perfectly exposed all round image.Instead of a flash, use a reflector to brighten the subject, very natural and effective. Lastolite make an excellent range of expandable circular reflectors.Use center-weighted or spot metering to take a reading from just the subject. This will expose the subject well but leave the background over exposed. We can use this lighting as this fits in with our genre as if we use this at the start we can use back lighting to introduce the characters and as by using this light you cannot see the characters face it will foreshadow something and would engage the audience on knowing who the character is.
Full frontal lighting
Whilst this is the most pleasing of all lighting for everyday subjects (i.e. the light source is behind the camera), and is the easiest to expose correctly, there are times when it can cause its own problems. Bright sunlight on a person can cause them to squint meaning facial lines and small eyes. Not very flattering. Unless you want the subject to wear sunglasses, you can use the backlighting technique above using a reflector or fill-in flash. If the subject is anything other than human, the standard evaluative metering is best with the sun behind to take an overall reading from the entire scene. Of course there are times when you want to play with the light, i.e. shooting into the sun which is beaming through the Eiffel Tower or similar subject, creating a fantastic and impressive silhouette. In this case, the camera will do a "digital squint" much like you would, and expose for the sun and the sky leaving the foreground darker. We could use this lighting in our production as this lighting makes the characters stand out and make them look more interesting to watch by showing their features more effectivly.





